Into Chile

We were both a little nervous about crossing into Chile from Argentina - we´ve never had to cross a border by bus before and we were loaded down with fine chocolate and wine. In order as we were seated on the bus we were presented first to Argentinian border guards to get our exit stamp and then to Chilian border guards to get an entry stamp. Other than a long look at Jon´s passport photo (those sideburns throw them off) we were into a new country hassel free!

Crossing into Chile from Bariloche hadn´t been in the original itinerary. But the lack of buses heading down to Patagonia on the Argentinian side prompted us to change plans and book berths on the ferry from Puerto Montt, Chile, to Puerto Natales, Chile (home to the famous Torres del Paine National Park). The ferry was a little out of the budget (at a whopping $370 US each) but seemed to be the least painfull way to make it south.

Puerto Montt, our first stop in Chile, was disapointing. We found it dirty and full of drunks when we arrived by bus but our guest house was nice and our fellow travelers welcoming. The next morning, things looked a little better in town, especially since we were leaving and the drunks were still sleeping it off. We lugged our bags to the ferry check in (along with 200 other tourists) and then left to purchase a few more motion sickness pills (Jenn) and wine (Jon). We returned later in the afternoon for a final check-in before setting sail (behind schedule already).

The ferry is a combination cargo ship/tourist trap which allows approximatly 200 people and an assortment of semi-trailers to be carried through the Chilian fjords south into Patagonia. We were settled into a massive 22 person dorm, sub-divided into sets of 2 bunk beds. Luckily for us, our bunk mates were wonderful and didn´t even snore!

We spent the next four days crawling at a snails pace through some outstanding scenery. There were only 12 hours of very rough seas, in which I curled in first my bunk and then the bathroom while the boat swayed madly. Jon is unaffected by such things and he read and dined and slept through the night.

But the boatride was worth the seasickness. We got about 50% sunny weather (which I think is pretty good) and we were the first trip of the season to visit the large, advancing glacier enroute. Very spectacular!

We´re now in Puerto Natales, Chile (the ferry arrived last night) and madly doing prep to get on the trail tomorrow. My rough night on the boat has cost me, I have now caught a cold and am snifflying and sneezing my way around town while wiping my nose raw with cheap kleenx. Its chilly, as expected but it hasn´t snowed (yet).

The mighty ferry.

Mountain views.

Snow.

Glacial rocks.

Glacier Pio XI

The front.